Christmas in Palahally

"Call Father George if you go to Mysore", a friend of mine had told me before I left to India. "He is in charge of an orphanage in the area, he will celebrate Christmas for sure."
Arrived in Mysore on December 23d, I called Father George, hoping he would propose me something great for Christmas.
The Christmas I spent in the village of Palahally far exceeds what I hoped for. It is probably, in many respects, one of the most unlikely I will ever live.

On the afternoon of the 24th, Father George picks me up at my hotel and makes me sit at the back of a family car, with 4 or 5 children sitting around me. He drives us to Palahally, "small village" of 12,000 inhabitants 15km from Mysore, where some 40 catholic families live. 

At my arrival, the children I am introduced to call me Auntie. Divia, a young English and Math teacher, lovely in her green saree, takes me to her home in order to make henna designs on my hands and forearms. Then, I share a simple but delicious dinner with Father George, and go to the church for the Christmas Mass.

Inside, people are barefoot, cross-legged on the floor, men on a side, women on the other. The older people are sitting on chairs at the back of the church. Women have put on their finest saree. It is a festival of vibrant colors in the church. The older women are veiled and take care that no single strand of hair shows unveiled. Of course, I am the only Western. 
To communicate, it is like everywhere else in India: people are standing very close to each other. An old keyboard plays along with the singers.

After Mass, everybody shakes hands, wishing each other "Happy Christmas", and Father George blesses the first stone of the future common room, which will enable the villagers to gather, especially during the monsoon. Villagers then sit around a fire, lit on the church square for the occasion. Santa Claus distributes gifts to the children, and the evening ends with some games around the fire.

On the 25th, I have a little tchai before going to church. A child is being baptized today. Once again, it is a real pleasure for the eyes.

Out of Mass, Sister Fabina firmly takes me to St. Anne Convent, where we sing a few carols at the crib before sharing a hearty breakfast of pappad and beaf curry. 
Then I sit on the churchsteps, intending to write a few lines and to read a few sheets, but let's call it the height of optimism. I am beset by children asking me to take them in picture, to tell them my name, the name of my mum and dad, sister, town, etc...

Once again, games on the church square. At "musical chairs", boys and girls play in different party games. In the afternoon, boys start a volleyball game. The Palahally team is reputed in the region, and a tournament is organised annually in the village.

Then comes the costume fitting session, since I have been requisitioned to embody Angel Gabriel in the children show. So I put on a large silver-coloured poncho and get ready to move hands over the girl who plays Mary. Everything synchronised with Angel Gabriel's voice, recorded in kannara (the local language). What program! The show starts at 7 PM precisely. Like any other night of the year, electricity will be cut off at 8 PM anyway.
After the show, I have dinner with the children. Menu : Biryani and chicken curry on a banana leaf.

Finally, I go back to Mysore, where my hotel room seems relly austere after the two unusual days spent in this village, where I have been welcomed with such hospitality...